Expedition starting point
The easiest and most obvious starting point is Ilulissat. It is the third largest town in Greenland and has most of the services that you would expect to find in an urban area. There is no need to take food; the supermarkets in the area have everything that you require.

Arrival
First there is the arrival in Greenland and then the arrival in Ilulissat. If the sky is clear and the aircraft are landing from the east you will have your nose pressed against the window. The views are superb as the plane descends along the contours of the ice cap. Kangerlussuaq is an old USAF base and from there Air Greenland flights radiate out to the other settlements. The short flight to Ilulissat crosses uninhabited country but the first views of the Icefjord are unforgettable.

Distance
How far do you want to travel? Over the years I have travelled approximately 1,000 nautical miles along the west coast of Greenland. For a three-week trip with plenty of time to explore the landscape plan to cover between 200 and 250 NM.

Camping and accommodation
There are numerous campsites in dramatic locations once you leave Ilulissat. It is advisable to pitch tents at least 10 metres above the high water mark because of the risk of waves from rolling bergs. In Ilulissat there is a campsite at the old heliport but a more convenient option, and not much more expensive, is the Youth Hostel (http://www.ilulissathostel.com). In the last couple of years we have also taken a group tipi which is ideal for sheltering from the weather or the swarms of insects which sometimes appear.

Supply points for water
There are plenty of streams and, if you are really stuck, it is possible to melt ice. Ice cubes from small bergs are the perfect accompaniment to the evening Pernod!

Getting back
If you should find yourself stuck in the northern waters of Disko Bay then there is a small ferry which calls at Saqqaq and Qeqertaq.

Weather forecast
Not easily available once you leave Ilulissat so spend time before leaving for Greenland practising making your own forecasts based on personal observations. I have found the website Weather Underground (http://www.wunderground.com) to be particularly useful. In many areas of Disko Bay it is possible to obtain a mobile phone signal, particularly if you walk slightly uphill, so it is possible to get friends or family back home to text you a forecast. Although the weather pattern is usually stable, on a couple of occasions I have experienced quite dramatic increases in wind speed in a very short period of time. Always remain vigilant, particularly if undertaking open crossings. Katabatic winds from the icecap are also a distinct possibility.

Tidal information
Not relevant in most areas although the tides run with considerable speed inside Pakitsoq. Running in with the tidal streams it would be possible to get stuck inside the fjord so ensure that you have plenty of time to wait for the tidal streams to reverse direction.

Maps/charts
Maps of the area aren’t great. The best available is Saga Maps 1:250,000 Sheet Number 10 Disko Bugten. There are many weeks of kayaking available on that one sheet.

Nearest airports
Ilulissat is served by Air Greenland (http://www.airgreenland.com) from Copenhagen via Kangerlussaq or via Reykjavik on Air Iceland (http://www.airiceland.is).

Useful Waypoints
Agpat: N 69° 45’54.5” W 51° 17’31.7”
Ilulissat: N 69° 13’12.8” W 51° 06’42.1”
Pakitsoq N Side: N 69° 29’14.3” W 50° 51’48.6”
Port Victor: N 69° 45’24.9” W 50° 15’58.9”
Qamavik: N 69° 55’14.5” W 51° 15’11.9”
Qeqertaq: N 69° 59’58.4” W 51° 18’03.9”
Rodebay: N 69° 20’26.2” W 50° 59’57.2”
Saqqaq: N 70° 00’30.6” W 51° 56’41.3”

About Stonington
We started our trip from our hometown, Stonington, Maine. For the visitor, the advantage of beginning here is the archipelago of 75 or so islands in a six-square-mile area just off the coast. The islands are closely-spaced, mostly wild, and some allow camping. You could easily spend as much time exploring the archipelago as the rest of the coast.

Stonington also offers a campground, motels, restaurants, a grocery store and some cultural attractions such as galleries and an Opera House. The public launch is located at the end of Seabreeze Avenue. Long-term fee-parking can be found a block or two away on Granite Street and Indian Point Road.

Distance
111 Nautical Miles, 5 legs

Camping
Membership of The Maine Island Trail Association (MITA) gives the paddler access to a network of campsites and day use areas spanning the Maine coast: www.mita.org, (207)761-8225.

Guides, Rentals & Logistics
Old Quarry Ocean Adventures, located on Webb Cove in Stonington, will arrange airport pick-ups and shuttles. A full service campground, Old Quarry, rents kayaks and provide launching and parking for a fee. Guided trips and instruction are also available: www.oldquarry.com, (207) 367-8977.

Castine Kayak Adventures offers rentals, guides and instruction, as well as a shuttle service. They are located in Castine and Brooklin: www.castinekayak.com, (207) 866-3506.

Carpe Diem Kayaking Company in Bar Harbour offers guided trips (equipment and transportation included) and BCU instruction. They also host the Downeast Kayaking Symposium in September: www.carpediemkayaking.com, (207) 669-2338.

Sea Cliff Kayakers (including John Carmody, a BCU Level 5 aspirant) in Boothbay leads guided trips anywhere along the Maine coast, providing transportation and equipment as well as BCU instruction: www.seacliffkayakers.com, (207) 651-4194.

Maine Island Kayak Company on Peaks Island organises expeditions to the Bold Coast and beyond, providing all needed equipment and logistical support: (207) 766-2373, info@maineislandkayak.com.

Tides
Tides in this area range from 11 to17.5 feet, increasing as you travel east where it is increasingly necessary to plan for the current. The tides generally flood east into the Bay of Fundy and ebb west. Tide tables for Stonington can be found at: www.freetidetables.com/state/Maine/sid/33200af1

Charts
Maptech waterproof charts #75 & #42
NOAA charts #13392 & 13394

Nearest Airports
Bangor International: 1.5 hrs from Stonington
Portland International Jetport: 3.5 hrs from Stonington
Logan International Airport, Boston, MA: 5.5 hrs from Stonington
Hancock County – Bar Harbour Airport (daily trips to Boston): 1 hr from Stonington
Stonington Airport: a small, private airstrip for small planes

European copies should be received in 2-5 working days from today – though this is best case scenario.

Rest of the World shipping is still on hold while the mailing house look for alternatives or the volcanic dust to sling its hook!

Those of you who have messaged re missing copies of Issue 19 – I have managed to get my hands on a few additional copies so they’ll be joining the queue waiting to get out of the UK.

Level
This is an exposed trip and you’re likely to experience significant sea conditions with wind against tide in Tory Sound. Once leaving the shelter of the islands close to the mainland, there are few easy landings and escape routes.

Launching
Normal launch spot is from Magheraroarty Pier (B 889 333).

Tides
While the trip out is almost 13km, the Inishbofin group (Inishbofin, Inishdooey and Inishbeg) protects the first half of the trip. In the middle of Tory Sound, the ENE flood runs from 3 hours 50 minutes before HW Galway until 2 hours 35 minutes after HW Galway. Maximum rate of springs is 2 knots.

Wind over tide conditions can kick up a big sea. On either side of the sound, i.e. near Tory Island and around the Inishbofin group, the flood runs from 4 hours 50 minutes before HW Galway until 1 hour 35 minutes after HW Galway. If the conditions are marginal, you’d be best to plan for favourable conditions in the middle of the sound.

Maps & charts
Ordnance Survey of Ireland 1:50,000 series, sheet 1.
Admiralty chart 2752 at a scale of 1:30,000.

Staying on Tory
There is limited camping at the village at West Town and it’s very public. There’s more space at Port Doon at the eastern end of the island. For other accommodation, have a look at www.oileanthorai.com

Getting there
If bringing your own boats from the UK, there are ferries to Ireland from Stranraer in southern Scotland, Liverpool, Holyhead and Fishguard. If you want to fly, there are flights to Carrickfinn airport from Dublin and Prestwick. Deep Blue Sea Kayaking should be able to help with boat hire for qualified and competent paddlers in 2010. Email Des@DeepBlueSeaKayaking.com for details.

References
Tory Island website: www.oileanthorai.com
Oileáin – a Guide to the Irish Islands: www.oileain.org
Carrickfinn Airport: www.DonegalAirport.ie
Irish Tourist Board: www.DiscoverIreland.com
Deep Blue Sea Kayaking: www.DeepBlueSeaKayaking.com

Download Excel Spreadsheet (.xls 20kb)

Team members: Dr Peter Schoedl, Dr Nathalie Marik
Expedition start: 9 July 2009 from Medveja, southwest of Rijeka
Arrival at Dubrovnik: 3 August 2009
Coastal ferry back to Rijeka: 6 August 2009
Arrival in Rijeka by ferry/paddling back to Medveja: 7 August 2009

Download the Google Earth file here (zip file .kmz 10kb)

Essential information:
We started our trip in Medveja, approx. 20 kilometres southwest of Rijeka. The small village is easy to find, since it is located along the coast road. The big advantage of this starting point is its protected beach for launching and a campsite just across the street, with a supermarket right next to it. We parked our car for the duration of the trip behind the reception building for a small fee.

Distance:
Total paddling distance: 313 nm (563 km) – 20 legs.

Camping and accommodation:
Wild camping is officially not allowed! As ocean paddlers we can reach hidden spots and pitch our tent in solitude. Obey the common wilderness camping ethic – leave no trace!  Ask for permission if there are any houses nearby. We camped 13 times in solitude on pituresque beaches and on rocky platforms along the more rugged coastlines without any problems.

Accomodation in fishing villages and coastal towns along our route (with all facilities):
Mali Losinj (Island Losinj): campsite Kredo (small cabin), Sali (Dugi Otok): private appartment, Primosten (Mainland): 1970s style hotel, Hvar (Island Hvar): private room, Korcula (Island Korcula): hotel, Dubrovnik: hotel.

All our accomodation was close to the shoreline or directly on the coast (exception: our appartment in Sali).

Important: Carry enough water, especially if you decide to venture into more remote areas.

Getting back:
The Jadrolinja ferry company offers transportation along the whole coastline of Croatia. So one-way trips of shorter duration are easy to arrange. See www.jadrolinja.hr for schedules and information about the coastal ferry system.

Weather forecast:

1. Weather report for the Adriatic Sea
Shore-based radio stations emit daily weather reports and weather forecasts for the upcoming 12 and 24 hour periods, both in Croatian and in English:

Rijekaradio – VHF ch. 04, 20, 24, 81 at 5:35, 14:35, 19:35 UTC
Splitradio – VHF ch. 07, 21,23, 81 at 5:45, 12:45, 19:45 UTC
Dubrovnikradio – VHF ch. 07,04 at 6:25, 13:20, 21:20 UTC
* UTC – universal time coordinating (= GMT, Greenwich Mean Time)

2.  Constant weather forecasts on VHF – transmitters
Weather forecasts for the Croatian coastal region are provided in Croatian, English, Italian and German every ten minutes, and are updated at 7:00, 13:00 and 19:00 (local time). The summary presents an overview of the weather, a short forecast for the next 24 hours and information on air pressure.

VHF ch. 73 for northern Adriatic/ western coast of Istria
VHF ch. 69 for northern Adriatic/ eastern part
VHF ch. 67 for central Adriatic / eastern part
VHF ch. 73 for southern Adriatic / eastern part

Tidal information:
The differences between high and low tide in the Adriatic are not very dramatic, if not to say negligible.
See: http://easytide.ukho.gov.uk

Wind is by far the most influencing force to deal with.  See www.windfinder.com for Information about the prevailing winds, forecasts,…

Maps/charts:
”Oestliche Adriaküste 1:100 000”, published by Freytag & Berndt: a spiral-binding book with detailed topographic maps showing contour lines, depths of the sea, information about every single marina, camp sites, information about VHF-channels, …  It is written in German, but the maps contain very useful information for pre-trip planning and navigation on the way. (ISBN-13: 978-3707905380)

3 Charts published by the Hydrographic Institute of the Republic of Croatia, Split (Hvratski Hidrografski Institut)
cover the coastline from Rijeka to Dubrovnik: Rijeka – O.Murter 1:200 000 (nr. 152), Sibenik – Lastovo 1:200 000 (nr. 153) , Peljesac – Rt Ostra 1:200 000 (nr. 154)

See http://www.hhi.hr the web site for the Hydrographic Institute of the Republic of Croatia, Split,  for Information about charts etc.

From Issue #19 we’ll also be offering individual online issues to purchase for just £3 per issue – again these issues will be both viewable online and downloadable as a PDF.

Current paper subscribers will also have access to our online versions – all they need to do is send me an email letting me know they’d like access and we can sort the rest.

12th February

9th April

11th June

13th August

8th October

10th December