OP22 Disko Bay facts
Aug 18, 2010 in Ocean Paddler news
By Kevin Mansell
Expedition starting point
The easiest and most obvious starting point is Ilulissat. It is the third largest town in Greenland and has most of the services that you would expect to find in an urban area. There is no need to take food; the supermarkets in the area have everything that you require.
Arrival
First there is the arrival in Greenland and then the arrival in Ilulissat. If the sky is clear and the aircraft are landing from the east you will have your nose pressed against the window. The views are superb as the plane descends along the contours of the ice cap. Kangerlussuaq is an old USAF base and from there Air Greenland flights radiate out to the other settlements. The short flight to Ilulissat crosses uninhabited country but the first views of the Icefjord are unforgettable.
Distance
How far do you want to travel? Over the years I have travelled approximately 1,000 nautical miles along the west coast of Greenland. For a three-week trip with plenty of time to explore the landscape plan to cover between 200 and 250 NM.
Camping and accommodation
There are numerous campsites in dramatic locations once you leave Ilulissat. It is advisable to pitch tents at least 10 metres above the high water mark because of the risk of waves from rolling bergs. In Ilulissat there is a campsite at the old heliport but a more convenient option, and not much more expensive, is the Youth Hostel (http://www.ilulissathostel.com). In the last couple of years we have also taken a group tipi which is ideal for sheltering from the weather or the swarms of insects which sometimes appear.
Supply points for water
There are plenty of streams and, if you are really stuck, it is possible to melt ice. Ice cubes from small bergs are the perfect accompaniment to the evening Pernod!
Getting back
If you should find yourself stuck in the northern waters of Disko Bay then there is a small ferry which calls at Saqqaq and Qeqertaq.
Weather forecast
Not easily available once you leave Ilulissat so spend time before leaving for Greenland practising making your own forecasts based on personal observations. I have found the website Weather Underground (http://www.wunderground.com) to be particularly useful. In many areas of Disko Bay it is possible to obtain a mobile phone signal, particularly if you walk slightly uphill, so it is possible to get friends or family back home to text you a forecast. Although the weather pattern is usually stable, on a couple of occasions I have experienced quite dramatic increases in wind speed in a very short period of time. Always remain vigilant, particularly if undertaking open crossings. Katabatic winds from the icecap are also a distinct possibility.
Tidal information
Not relevant in most areas although the tides run with considerable speed inside Pakitsoq. Running in with the tidal streams it would be possible to get stuck inside the fjord so ensure that you have plenty of time to wait for the tidal streams to reverse direction.
Maps/charts
Maps of the area aren’t great. The best available is Saga Maps 1:250,000 Sheet Number 10 Disko Bugten. There are many weeks of kayaking available on that one sheet.
Nearest airports
Ilulissat is served by Air Greenland (http://www.airgreenland.com) from Copenhagen via Kangerlussaq or via Reykjavik on Air Iceland (http://www.airiceland.is).
Useful Waypoints
Agpat: N 69° 45’54.5” W 51° 17’31.7”
Ilulissat: N 69° 13’12.8” W 51° 06’42.1”
Pakitsoq N Side: N 69° 29’14.3” W 50° 51’48.6”
Port Victor: N 69° 45’24.9” W 50° 15’58.9”
Qamavik: N 69° 55’14.5” W 51° 15’11.9”
Qeqertaq: N 69° 59’58.4” W 51° 18’03.9”
Rodebay: N 69° 20’26.2” W 50° 59’57.2”
Saqqaq: N 70° 00’30.6” W 51° 56’41.3”